Mine is a ladder style and uses poly bushings at all ends and a stock YJ shackle on the frame end.
I also am running very long travel shocks.
Mine is a ladder style and uses poly bushings at all ends and a stock YJ shackle on the frame end.
I also am running very long travel shocks.
Lifetime member,Past President, Past Memb. Sec.
Past Corresp. Sec.
https://www.facebook.com/CreativeFabWorks
Thank you to our supporters and volunteers!
Is there any ryhme or reason for the shacle angle and length? The more I read on this the more confused I get on how to set it up.
My shackle stands vertical with the traction bar end on the top side of the shackle. The length of the shackle can only help you with the twisting effect of the bar itself. The longer the shackle to more it can twist to allow articulation, but this only helps to a certain extent.
Lifetime member,Past President, Past Memb. Sec.
Past Corresp. Sec.
https://www.facebook.com/CreativeFabWorks
Thank you to our supporters and volunteers!
OK as for the issues mine has with the Drag link It looks vary much like it will make contact with e Leaf Spring if the Blocks were removed, Now I am removing the blocks and looking to go with a M.I.T. drop drag link it is sort of "S" shaped to basicly be paralel(sp) with the tie rod till it gets beyond the leaf spring. As for we hop I'm trying the Add-A-Leaf from Rubicon Express it's supose to help with the axle rap probelms. Future plan is if I stay set-up this way is a pair of Telescoping Quick Release Torque Bars from Warrior, you can buy them from Essentials. Depending on how I like the spring over I might stay that way or go to a Coil over conversion next Winter........
A family that wheels together, stays together.....
How much drop does you pitman arm have and do any of yous have any problems with kiting your Drag Link on the Leaf Springs? that of all is my worst worry...... :bigemo_harabe_net-01:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Feb 28 2006, 07:40 AM) [snapback]11121[/snapback]</div>I have the Rubicon Express spring over with reverse eyes. No track bars front or rear since I don't do alot of highway driving. I have a drop pitman arm. No bump steer at all. My drag link is staight & I do not have high steer. It has never been a problem. Drives fine but it would be a disaster to have to swerve to miss a dog running out in front of me.
I have the same traction bar that Ganz showed in his post. It is from Mountain Off Road. (MORE) It definitely limits articulation. In fact, from my research, there is not an anti wrap device out there that will not limit articulation on a spring over. MORE admitted this to me.
As a comparison, Ironman has the same spring over as me. Prior to his anti wrap installation, he could get much further up the RTI ramp than I could. I don't know if he has tried the ramp since he did his wrap bar.
I have no idea why you have blocks under your springs when running 33's. I would eliminate them. As far as driveshafts, I found that the Tom Woods heavy duty booted shaft is much more robust than the one I bought from 4wd hardware. A little more money but a nice unit. You should also check out the guys down in Ann Arbor that just joined GL as an associate member. That is what it is all about. Helping each other.
[/b]
A family that wheels together, stays together.....
I don't know how much my drop is. I will not be able to check it for a couple days. Maybe Ironman remembers since he sold it to me.
KDSRGON GL#2665 KD8EGK
Thanks to those that do all the hard work.
The pitman arm I sold WhiteRhino was the RE2500 for 3.5" lifts and above, it is the one I use for all of the spring overs I do that are not high steer.
Lifetime member,Past President, Past Memb. Sec.
Past Corresp. Sec.
https://www.facebook.com/CreativeFabWorks
Thank you to our supporters and volunteers!
So with a 3.5" pitman Arm you have no hit issues at all? Ok is the Spring over conversion really worth the extra effert? Cause my buddy is trying to talk me into going back to spring under. Cause I'm really starting to consider it. Was looking into the Rustys 4" kit plus use my 1 1/4" longer shakles to get the 5" of lift I want out of the Jeep. Any thoughts on this. plus added note the stock spring perches were never removed so it's not much of a change.. :wow:
A family that wheels together, stays together.....
It's pretty fair to say that going back to su will give you a better ride. It really depends on what you plan to do with it. A su will have more obstruction problems than a so whe trail riding over logs and rocks.
I am more inclined to fix the problems you have. One other problem you have is the longer shackles. They will give you more handling problems and you do not need them if you only want to be at a 5 inch lift.
KDSRGON GL#2665 KD8EGK
Thanks to those that do all the hard work.
Well I'm going to go with the 4" Rustys offroad Kit, And go back to Spring Under. The Pros and Cons are fairly equal from what I've seen, just for what is in the budget right now, the spring under is do-able. Plus to add to the issues we found Yesterday when working on the ol' girl we found that both front and one rear Leaf spring packs are "bent" Sort of a in a "S". So the Leafs are shot. But who knows what the future holds. Plains are already in the works for next winter when the YJ hits the garage for the snow, to put a Procomp Coil Over kit on her....
A family that wheels together, stays together.....
Bookmarks