Rear Axle Problems

[hemrides]

I have a 2004 Wrangler, stock. I noticed some diff. fluid leaking on the passenger side, (Rear Diff.) The dealer told me it needs a new axle housing, as well as an internal axle shaft. They're not sure what the cause is until they get it taken apart. The jeep has 62,500 miles on it. Total cost is around $1,800 for the repair. Now the good news it's under warranty so it will cost me $100 to fix. My question, is this normal for this to wear out that fast.

Thanks,
Dave

[Nvrenuf]

Where is it leaking at? The wheel or the housing were the axle presses in. My first opinion is it's odd to need a housing.

Steve

[oz97tj]

Where is it leaking at? The wheel or the housing were the axle presses in. My first opinion is it's odd to need a housing.

Steve

I would generally agree. However, if you have a 35 rear and have been hard on it they have been known to bend from time to time. If the tubes bent a little, or if the plug welds loosened holding the tubes in the housing then it could cause it to leak where the housing and the tube meets.

As for the shaft, this is a fairly cheap part that is easily replacable and is known to break in the 35s so it might be showing some twist in the splines.

These are just a guess though. If they will replace it all and will only cost you $100 bucks get it done. It does seem like it's a bit low on miliage though for this to be happening unless you have been pretty hard on it.

[joe_jeep]

if it is a dana 35 dont pay to fix it. swap something else in its place. it will happen again. a dana 44 should be similar a price from the dealer. or look into something else in the aftermarket.

[hemrides]

Thanks for the input. I will call the dealer about the Dana 44 vs the 35. It has not been run hard. Mostly highway and some Class one trails...easy trails. I had a VEHIX report run before I bought it...it came back clean. It only had 16k miles on it when I bought it. The under carriage was like new...it was a single owner.

The leaking is where the shaft joins to the Diff on the passenger side.

Thanks again,

Dave

[oz97tj]

Thanks for the input. I will call the dealer about the Dana 44 vs the 35. It has not been run hard. Mostly highway and some Class one trails...easy trails. I had a VEHIX report run before I bought it...it came back clean. It only had 16k miles on it when I bought it. The under carriage was like new...it was a single owner.

The leaking is where the shaft joins to the Diff on the passenger side.

Thanks again,

Dave


The 35s have week axle tubes and flex very easily. Even still I'm surprised you are having these problems on a stock jeep. Especially one with relatively low miles. It's not uncommon on rigs with big tires or have been run hard though.

As for the 44 vs the 35, the 44 would be a much better axle. They did come from the factory in some rigs (mainly tow package I believe) so they will bolt right in. If the dealership will put one in then great, but I kind of doubt they will. Even if you have to pay the difference in axle price you would be doing pretty good, but I just doubt they will do it. In which case pay the $100 bucks and get a whole new 35 unless you plan a build on the rig then put that money to a Ford 8.8. If you plan to leave it stock then don't be afraid of the 35. I have seen 35s live through lots of abuse. The thing is with them is more of a when, not if, if you wheel them hard.

[WhiteRhino]

If the dealership will fix it all for $100, I'd take advanatage of it.

[300Grand]

Dave,

It does seem odd the the houseing would be shot with that low of miles and very light use, but stranger things have happened. It would cost you close to $100 to ahe the fluid changed so tahe advantage of the new axle for $100. you've got less then a month to get that thing in tip top shape:)

E-mail me your Phone # so we can talk details for our color tour.

[hemrides]

Thanks again for all the feed back. This is great. I was told today the welds broke. The dealer would not let me pay the difference for a 44. So I am going to put the 35 back in for the $100. It was going to cost a little over $2000 for a new 44 from the dealer. I don't have the money for that right now. I need to read up more on the 44 and would like to try it myself at a later date.

Thanks,
Dave

[oz97tj]

Thanks again for all the feed back. This is great. I was told today the welds broke. The dealer would not let me pay the difference for a 44. So I am going to put the 35 back in for the $100. It was going to cost a little over $2000 for a new 44 from the dealer. I don't have the money for that right now. I need to read up more on the 44 and would like to try it myself at a later date.

Thanks,
Dave

If you upgrade down the road, look into a Ford 8.8 for a 95 or newer explorer. They have the same bolt pattern that you have now. Are very similar in width (about 1.5 inches narrower). And they are arguably as strong or better than a 44. The only real downfall to them is they are a c-clip axle, but that can be fixed with a kit from Superior that eliminates that and includes alloy shafts. You can pick up 8.8s for like $150 and buy a heavy duty bracket kit for around 3 to 400. Or do like I did and cut the brackets off the stock axle and reweld them on the 8.8.

[yj_hank]

I would agree with the ford 8.8 axle for a swap in. I put one in my jeep. It is an easy swap and can be done for about $500.00.

Henry

[hemrides]

Well...I got my Jeep back Friday...It sounded like they left half of the bolts out. It rattled and made a lot of noise. So I turned around and took it back to the dealer. Told them I wanted it the same way as when I brought it in. I hope this doesn't turn into a mess.

Dave
:banghead:

[Brods]

When you get it back, carefully go over everything that was repaired. Check to see that all the bolts are there and are tight. Make sure any wires, ebrake cables and brake lines are routed correctly and are in their original retainers. It is rare that I do not find loose or missing bolts, wire looms left hanging loose, etc. after getting a vehicle "fixed" at a dealer.

[DDS4X4]

If it requires "limited slip modifier" (or whatever it is called) lubricant in the diff, make sure they put it in or it will rattle/chatter also.