View Full Version : Full Size Cherokee stuff

July 28th, 2005, 09:25 PM
Anyone have any parts for an 80 Cherokee Chief?

Anyone have any tips, or suggestions as far as what to fix before it breaks?

My body is almost gone, held together with bondo. I am trying to put it together just enough to tow up my Jeep for Gitchee Gumee!!!

I need to do:

New front spring bushings
exaust complete
gas tank
door latches
rear door/window
turn signals
frame repair
trailer light wiring
weld up a hitch

oh and some more stuff I can't remember....oh, lug nuts, tires, radiator....



July 28th, 2005, 10:43 PM

Is the Chief 2 or 4 door? I know a guy that is building a trail rig that is removing a nice set of doors and gate from a 4 door. I also may know of another that was being used to donate a motor and tranny.


July 29th, 2005, 07:03 PM
Give me his name!!!! this tailgate is completely shot...window is caulked in.

Door opens with a vice grip....and the windows are held up with 2x4's...but its a 2 door thou....



July 30th, 2005, 12:47 AM
Goo luck with all that...i'm eyeing a rusty mess around the corner from me that sounds like yours :P

August 1st, 2005, 01:22 AM
Lucas call or e-mail vic
he may be able to help

good luck


August 1st, 2005, 03:14 PM
For most of this, I'd hit up the message board at ifsja.org; but here's what I've used or know of. Some parts you could try and find using car-part.com

New front spring bushings -- http://www.espo.com/

exaust complete -- S&K Muffler, don't know of any aftermarket bolt-on kits. they do custom for reasonable prices.

gas tank - I think there's a place that sells plastic replacements, how bad is it? small pinholes can be fixed w/ the jb weld putty

brakes - chevy 1/2-ton stuff, easy & cheap

windows - windex ;-)

seats - escort seats are supposed to fit with minor mods

door latches - junkyard

rear door/window - i think you can swap off most any wag

turn signals - check for a wiring harness at the rear on the driver's side. There's a plug that leads to both sides, my came undone once. Otherwise, check the bulbs and break out the multimeter.

frame repair - you can weld, right?

trailer light wiring - probably have to patch into the stock stuff, don't know of a e-z harness like on newer trucks/SUVs

weld up a hitch - I think hidden hitch sells a bolt-on class 3

August 1st, 2005, 05:41 PM
Go Johnny Go


August 1st, 2005, 07:07 PM
Yeah, I'm starting to do the searching and I did join up with IFSJA.org...

I did patch my frame.
I siliconed the holes in the top of the tank (owner drywall screwed some galv plates in the floor)
I ordered a new fuel sending unit with pickup (after I attempted to repair my rusted out one)
I ordered new spring bushings at 7 bucks a pop.
I bought a new window slide, so I can attempt to put back the window unit (a 2x4 has that duty now)
Some nice ratchet straps are holding the tank up now until I can get some picks of what the original straps look like and make some.
I found a hitch plug but I don't know if it works, I still need to fix the electrical.
I still can't figure out the brakes.
Need some new well used tires 33".
I have a reciever tube I'm welding to the bumper/frame.
Need to weld a plate over the leaking sunroof.
We jamed a piece of tubing under the frame/ seat body area and it made the drivers seat sit level instead of driver/passenger hitting heads.
I think the radiator is all filled with barsleak, so even if I did put a 1" hole in it, I don't think it would leak!

Oh, joys...


August 1st, 2005, 08:26 PM

August 2nd, 2005, 02:35 AM

August 2nd, 2005, 04:31 PM
>> I siliconed the holes in the top of the tank

I thought silicone broke down in gas. Some sloshing could cause it to break down and plug up the sock in the tank. Might try the JB weld stuff instead. (Sounds like u just have to let out the straps.)

>> Some nice ratchet straps are holding the tank up now until I can get some picks of what the original straps look like and make some.

I know my 75 has a different setup. This should be an easy one for IFSJA.

>> I still can't figure out the brakes.

What's up with them?

>> I have a reciever tube I'm welding to the bumper/frame.

Check the rear x-member for rot. They aren't the thickest. (which is why I suggested a hitch that would incorporate the side rails and not just the rear x)

August 2nd, 2005, 10:21 PM
There is a hitch there already, but they torched some of it for a dual exaust. I plan on running some tie ins along the frame, then use the existing hitch/bumper as a tie in as well. It will probably outlast everything else!

Yeah, all I had at the time was some silicon, so thats what got put on it. I wanted some epoxy or the like. I bought a new sending unit, so I'll probably just put the right stuff on there when I put that in.

Brakes are much better now. I had to "power bleed" them, use the whole can filled with brake fluid and a tube in it thing. From what I gathered online, sometimes air gets trapped in the proportioning valve and its very difficult to get it out. But using this technique instead of the cracking and letting gravity work seemed to really expell a ton of air in the lines. My pedal used to travel 3" before anything and the rears didn't even move! But now I get bite immediately....still not locking them up, but its on 33's and some rubber dryrotted lines. I'm replacing those next....I need to stop this vehicle and my TJ remember!!

I drove it 20 miles today and it didn't overheat, but I NEED new tires. I even went out and bought enough lug nuts for more that 3 per wheel!! Exaust is next cuz I'm getting dizzy!!


August 3rd, 2005, 01:58 PM
If you want a little longer brake line, then go with the stock full-size blazer lines in front. they are about 4" longer and same fittings. I can't remember the trick for the rear, probably somewhere on IFSJA.

August 3rd, 2005, 06:48 PM
I haven't had a bunch of time to search and stuff, dialup isn't the best for researching!!

But the parts guys had a listing for a longer brake line, I'll probably get that one. Said 2 days, so I'm going tonight to order them for this weekend.



August 23rd, 2005, 10:28 PM
Redid most of the brakes. Tonight I towed my Jeep around the block to see how it pulled. Goes fine, but doesn't stop all that nice!!!

I might try to bleed the brakes again just in case.

Now to get the turn signals working.....I bought some magnetic turnsignal lights....

Radiator got a leak in it. Luckily Keith had a spare, so I swapped that in tonight, runs cooler now too. I bought a spare J-truck, has a new radiator, so thats coming with me in the back seat!

Keith let me borrow a set of his 32's, so it rides nice now! I replaced the rubber spring bushings and it steers much better now too. Gas gage works now with the new sending unit.

Keep driving it every day making sure it will be OK to drive up!


August 24th, 2005, 11:14 AM
From my experience, it might be good to head out on a 2 or 3 hour trip with it at highway speeds when you aren't relying on it. Maybe find a friend to go visit and make a trip out of it.

On my first big trip after I re-did the Wagoneer I spent a while (month or two) driving it to work a few times a week, and I found a few gremilins. The fun really started once I took it up to highway speeds for a few hours on the way to Kentucky, I started to find stuff that wouldn't show up in the daily commute.

Originally posted by lgottler@Aug 23 2005, 08:28 PM

Keep driving it every day making sure it will be OK to drive up!

<div align="right">5627

August 24th, 2005, 11:50 AM
We&#39;ll keep an eye out for you on the side of the highway.............

August 24th, 2005, 06:21 PM
The plan is, if it does die on the way. Leave it somewhere, and come back for it later....I&#39;ll just drive the TJ up.

Now, I hope the border people don&#39;t hassle me on my windshield being broken&#33;&#33;&#33; It costs too much to fix&#33;