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jsawduste
December 4th, 2006, 06:33 AM
Crash II is nearing the start of it`s build.

Have most of the sub asm. done and now am only waiting for the suspension to show up.

Been running Nito Mud Grapplers 33 x 13.50`s.

Is there really much of a differance between a set of 35`s vs. the 33`s I`ve been running ?

A little bit of lift and perhaps a bit bigger footprint with the 35`s but is worth the cost ?

Could get 37`s in but that might be a bit tight and I am worried about rasining the CG to high.

4/4.5 suspension plus 1 inch body with opened rear wheelwells and tube front fenders.

Gearing is not an issue with 5:13`s and a stroker 4.8

Any comments ?

Thanks

WhiteRhino
December 4th, 2006, 08:01 AM
Couple thoughts.

You did not mention your axles. If you are still running D30 or equivilant, a 33 is about the place to stop.

If you are running a tougher axle, the step up to 35's gets you a couple things. For starters, another inch of ground clearance may not sound like much, but it helps. Also, for some of the park type settings, it may get you allowed on tougher trails.

It all boils down to what terrain you want to run.

calvynandhobbs
December 4th, 2006, 09:04 AM
I'm running 35s on my CJ7 with the stock D30 front and D44 rear. I'm locked both front and rear and haven't had a problem yet, but I'm also a lightfoot. The extra inch does make a difference when you get into rocks. When I was on 33s I beat the mess out of my ubolts and bottom of my differentials. With the 35s I don't seem to be hitting as much stuff under the CJ.

jsawduste
December 4th, 2006, 10:29 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino &#064; Dec 4 2006, 07&#58;01 AM) 20396</div>

Couple thoughts.

You did not mention your axles. If you are still running D30 or equivilant, a 33 is about the place to stop.

If you are running a tougher axle, the step up to 35&#39;s gets you a couple things. For starters, another inch of ground clearance may not sound like much, but it helps. Also, for some of the park type settings, it may get you allowed on tougher trails.

It all boils down to what terrain you want to run.
[/b]

Thanks for the comment. Running a D44 in the front with true trac and chromo axles and a highly modded 8.8 in the back. So I should not have any axle issues.............. :rolleyes:

lgottler
December 4th, 2006, 12:20 PM
Ground clearance under the pig depends on your axle, Samurais for instance on 31&#39;s will walk everywhere Jeeps on 33-35&#39;s do&#33; That 1.5-2" benefit that Jeep has, the Samurai makes up for with that much more clearance under the pigs&#33; And that ticks me off&#33;

I&#39;d flex out your suspension to the max, measure your tire size and subtract one inch, thats what I&#39;d run. Cut your fenders out of the way first&#33; You don&#39;t have to lift it to do this either. Just adjust your bumpstops which you would have to do anyways when you lifted it. Disconnect your shocks and brake lines, and twist it as much as you can and carve your fenders until your happy&#33;

I&#39;d go to 37&#39;s if I were you, your axles will probably hold up fine and you won&#39;t be saying I wish I&#39;d a gone to 37&#39;s in a year. Just cut whatever is in the way out of the way. Lift it as little as possible.

GL

Lucas

WhiteRhino
December 4th, 2006, 02:38 PM
I agree with Lucas.
With your axle setup, a 35-37 is really the way to go. I had my 35&#39;s up for sale with the full intent of going to 37". The problem is that I have not found a true 37" tire that I really like. It&#39;s pretty hard to beat the 36" Irok for the &#036;&#036;&#036;&#036;. And if you don&#39;t know, the 36" is taller than the 37" because the 37 is short.

You can run a 38.5 that measures about 37" but they start adding a little more weight.

What is your type of wheeling?

joe_jeep
December 4th, 2006, 03:45 PM
bigger is better&#33;