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lgottler
June 15th, 2006, 09:50 PM
I'm running 3" coils now, RE I think.

What brand springs are the "good ones" now? I had Tera, they sagged 1+" and ProComps broke....

I'm thinking of just longer RE's...maybe 5.5" or 7.5" ones, anyone experience with how the longer springs are holding up?

I'm moving my upper spring perch up X inches and want a longer travel spring in there...

Lucas

Creative Fab
June 16th, 2006, 10:29 AM
I have had a couple of customers with the 5.5" RE coils and they sagged 1" over a couple year period, but then again so do all of them. It is a comprimise really, stiff springs=less saggage, softer springs=more saggage.

I have only installed one set of the RE7.5" coils and the guy did not own the Jeep very long after that so I cant comment on how they held up, I can only assume the same as RE springs are consistant accross the board from my experience.

Give me a call for your best price on RE springs!

989 832 7538

lgottler
June 17th, 2006, 03:44 PM
I met a guy who was using 5", I think, RockKrawler coils? First thing he said was don't buy them, said they sagged 2" in the front after a week, thats the kind of thing I'm trying to avoid!

I wonder how much if any longer XJ or ZJ coils are....

Lucas

Creative Fab
June 17th, 2006, 05:28 PM
I happen to have a set of 5.5" ZJ RE coils new in the box out in the stock pile of parts for Roadhouses future ZJ project. Want a measurement? Granted it will be a uncompressed measurement.

lgottler
June 18th, 2006, 08:04 AM
Well, I wonder what the front end weights are and spring mount locations compared to a TJ are. I'll have to do some google searching of Pirate first...

Thanks,

Lucas

lgottler
June 27th, 2006, 08:48 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ironman &#064; Jun 17 2006, 05&#58;28 PM) 14962</div>

I happen to have a set of 5.5" ZJ RE coils new in the box out in the stock pile of parts for Roadhouses future ZJ project. Want a measurement? Granted it will be a uncompressed measurement.
[/b]

Looks like ZJ coils net another 2-2.5" of lift over a TJ coil. So, if I&#39;m running a 3" lift coil, going to a 5" ZJ lift coil would get me a compressed spring about 7" longer and that would be perfect&#33;

Lucas

Roadhouse
June 28th, 2006, 01:32 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ironman &#064; Jun 17 2006, 05&#58;28 PM) 14962</div>

I happen to have a set of 5.5" ZJ RE coils new in the box out in the stock pile of parts for Roadhouses future ZJ project. Want a measurement? Granted it will be a uncompressed measurement.
[/b]


Actually they are 4.5" coils that sit at 5.5" to 6.5" depending who you talked to.
I currently have RE 3.5" coils on my ZJ. Been on for a few years. They sat at 4.5" when first installed now they are at 4".
I&#39;ve never figured out RE coils, they are always taller than the advertised height.

joe_jeep
June 29th, 2006, 09:37 AM
i have super lift coils, 4 inch, they are very stiff&#33;&#33; but they are 5 years old and havent sagged hardly at all&#33;&#33; very harsh ride on pavement at street pressure. i wouldnt recommend them, but if you want no sag its an option. perhaps they make a 3.5 to 4.5 inch zj coil?? good luck
p.s. who built you radius arms, i need a set&#33;&#33; i am about to do a similar swap to what u have?? except 1/2 ton hi pin 44 and 9in. was thinkin heim jointed radius arms, i have the factory arms to start with. thx

lgottler
June 29th, 2006, 06:48 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(joe_jeep &#064; Jun 29 2006, 09&#58;37 AM) 15304</div>

p.s. who built you radius arms, i need a set&#33;&#33; i am about to do a similar swap to what u have?? except 1/2 ton hi pin 44 and 9in. was thinkin heim jointed radius arms, i have the factory arms to start with. thx
[/b]

I built my own....stock TJ bushings for the frame and 2x3 1/4" wall tubing for the arms. Extended about 15" past stock length, bent in and up etc... I also use a 1/2 ton HPD44, 3/4 ton outers thou.

I&#39;m going to build another set of arms for it, going to round tube them and bend them up higher and try to tuck them into the inside of the frame rails....maybe the outside....don&#39;t know yet.....I&#39;m still looking to see if anyone makes a "C" only, something I can just create my own, weld what I want to it....

Those Superlift coils....what are you running in the front? 6cyl? Winch?

Lucas

keithshotrodshop
June 29th, 2006, 10:51 PM
There is a company that makes the C-only. It was in petersons about a year ago. I think they are availble through broncograveyard.com

lgottler
June 30th, 2006, 11:25 AM
I tried a bunch of different sites, but they only offer the front C, cast. Then they offer the weld on axle brackets....

Lucas

95geo
June 30th, 2006, 11:35 AM
if your redoing your arms you might as well skip the "C"s straight on one side with the rotation control on one end or make it a 4 link style minus one link, use the track bar in both cases to center the axle

i would only use heims if they are large (>3/4") and good quality, they loosen up and make lots of noise after a few years of use.

lgottler
June 30th, 2006, 01:44 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(95geo &#064; Jun 30 2006, 11&#58;35 AM) 15322</div>

if your redoing your arms you might as well skip the "C"s straight on one side with the rotation control on one end or make it a 4 link style minus one link, use the track bar in both cases to center the axle

i would only use heims if they are large (>3/4") and good quality, they loosen up and make lots of noise after a few years of use.
[/b]

I&#39;m Ok with the radius style of connecting links. For this redo, I think I&#39;m going with JJ or similar on the frame side for a test, I don&#39;t drive it on the road everyday, so I&#39;m sure they won&#39;t wear out as fast. I thought about wristing it, but my limit on flex now is my shock, so we&#39;ll see what happens with some longer travel shocks in the front....

Lucas

95geo
June 30th, 2006, 02:05 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lgottler &#064; Jun 30 2006, 01&#58;44 PM) 15331</div>


I&#39;m Ok with the radius style of connecting links. For this redo, I think I&#39;m going with JJ or similar on the frame side for a test, I don&#39;t drive it on the road everyday, so I&#39;m sure they won&#39;t wear out as fast. I thought about wristing it, but my limit on flex now is my shock, so we&#39;ll see what happens with some longer travel shocks in the front....

Lucas
[/b]

on the axle end you can use your factory lower control arm bushings pressed into a lightly machined 2.5"x.25" (i think) wall dom (mine are xj) on the axle end and the frame end do a looser style joint (johnny, heim) you dont need it to be wristed, the axle flex doesnt need to be like a slinkey or allow the axle to twist 45* it just has to allow it to move without binding and breaking parts.....

CHANGE THE REAR&#33; :P



on another note, how much "flex" do you need? do you carry your tires often? from what i have seen your jeep works really good.

lgottler
June 30th, 2006, 05:44 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(95geo &#064; Jun 30 2006, 02&#58;05 PM) 15332</div>

on the axle end you can use your factory lower control arm bushings pressed into a lightly machined 2.5"x.25" (i think) wall dom (mine are xj) on the axle end and the frame end do a looser style joint (johnny, heim) you dont need it to be wristed, the axle flex doesnt need to be like a slinkey or allow the axle to twist 45* it just has to allow it to move without binding and breaking parts.....

CHANGE THE REAR&#33; :P

on another note, how much "flex" do you need? do you carry your tires often? from what i have seen your jeep works really good.
[/b]


Believe it or not, but the rear SOA YJ leafs with antiwrap bar flex more than my front coils/radius arms do&#33; :D

The front will just stay the ford radius arm style. First because the axle I&#39;m using has them cast on the tube, and secondly, it works pretty darn good&#33; I already have the stock rubber style C bushings on the axle side, and am using my TJ bushings pressed into a piece of DOM I machined. It works, but when my axle flexes, 90% of my arm rotation is on the TJ bushing end of the arm (frame side), so I figured I would try a joint that won&#39;t "fight" the twist. I only have one concern: the joint I pick would swivel only so many degrees, then bind, then break. I just don&#39;t know if I need to worry about it or not.

I will change the rear.....to XJ leaf lift springs&#33; I&#39;m going to extend the wheelbase another few inches, move my shackles up much higher... I am putting the D300/231 doubler on it, and I want a slightly better DS angle in the rear.

The main goal of all this is to get another couple inches of up travel front and back while gaining another few inches of downtravel as a secondary benefit. I want to go faster without killing myself and Jeep and go slower for the rocks.

So far my plans are front suspension, rear suspension, t-case (doubler), trans (throwout bearing thing), minor boatsiding, fender adjustments, fuel tank (finally finish it), beadlock rock ring on inside, rear frame mods, rewire some stuff, and some other misc. things. I don&#39;t have money anymore (baby) but I do have a garage with heat, so I&#39;ll steal a welder, and collect beer cans so I can have this thing finished for Memorial Weekend &#39;07 and with things done the right way instead of the rushed way&#33;

Lucas

lgottler
June 30th, 2006, 08:47 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lgottler &#064; Jun 30 2006, 05&#58;44 PM) 15333</div>

I already have the stock rubber style C bushings on the axle side, and am using my TJ bushings pressed into a piece of DOM I machined. It works, but when my axle flexes, 90% of my arm rotation is on the TJ bushing end of the arm (frame side), so I figured I would try a joint that won&#39;t "fight" the twist. I only have one concern: the joint I pick would swivel only so many degrees, then bind, then break. I just don&#39;t know if I need to worry about it or not.
[/b]


Well, did some soul searching tonight on joints. Looks like I&#39;m going to stick with my rubber bushings&#33; Can&#39;t beat the price, simplicity, and the fact I don&#39;t really have a degree limit, except when something tears or breaks&#33;

OK, springs....Really it comes down to ride quality. If it sags, I put in my 1" spacer. I can adjust the ride height because I&#39;m welding the spring perches on wherever they need to be to get the ride height I need&#33; So I think I&#39;ll try to get my hands on some used ZJ coils and go from there.

Lucas

Timberwolf
July 1st, 2006, 11:06 AM
What brand doubler are you going to use that mates a 231/300?

I have not seen this combo, but I like it&#33;

lgottler
July 2nd, 2006, 10:36 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Timberwolf &#064; Jul 1 2006, 11&#58;06 AM) 15344</div>

What brand doubler are you going to use that mates a 231/300?

I have not seen this combo, but I like it&#33;
[/b]


A couple people make one....MadRooster, BullTear, etc... but I&#39;m going to try and make my own&#33;

Lucas

Timberwolf
July 3rd, 2006, 12:48 AM
I like your spunk&#33;

Roadhouse
July 5th, 2006, 02:30 PM
Lucas, Pat is going to build me some arms for for the front of my ZJ, similar to yours. I&#39;m going to try and retain the factory rubber c-bushing at the axle for slightly more flex than a poly bushing. At the frame end I think we will use the RE big flex joint. All details will be worked out when the Jeep gets to Pats. Still waiting for my axles to get done.

lgottler
July 13th, 2006, 05:39 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Roadhouse &#064; Jul 5 2006, 02&#58;30 PM) 15400</div>

Lucas, Pat is going to build me some arms for for the front of my ZJ, similar to yours. I&#39;m going to try and retain the factory rubber c-bushing at the axle for slightly more flex than a poly bushing. At the frame end I think we will use the RE big flex joint. All details will be worked out when the Jeep gets to Pats. Still waiting for my axles to get done.
[/b]

I laid down underneath it last night. I think if I make one cut, turn my radius arms inwards, I can mount them inside the frame rails. I just couldn&#39;t make my mind up about the bumpstops. I think I&#39;m going to do a set of 2 bumpstops, both progressive, one on the arm itself and the other on the axle, kinda make it progressive, one hits, but its on the arm, so leverage makes it "less active" or softer, then the axle mounted one does the final stoppage&#33; I keep reading about the hydrobumps, but they&#39;re so darn expensive&#33; I looked into making my own, its darn near the same as buying one&#33;

Lucas

jeepguy74
July 21st, 2006, 02:06 AM
i am thinking about doing a oba setup using a ac pump
my question is how to do it i have herd many ideas but no diagram or anything
any help i would be thankfull

joe_jeep
July 27th, 2006, 08:20 AM
sorry it took so long to reply lucas was on vacation. i have a 6cyl with ac man trans. fairly light? no winch usually, i borrow a hs9500i on a reciever cradle once in a while tho, but usually use it in the rear. if you decide to go with new arms id buy your old ones&#33;&#33; pm me if you get the bug to build&#33; thx
you going to the d.o.a.??

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jeepguy74 &#064; Jul 21 2006, 02&#58;06 AM) 15918</div>

i am thinking about doing a oba setup using a ac pump
my question is how to do it i have herd many ideas but no diagram or anything
any help i would be thankfull
[/b]

brad kilby sells all the stuff u need and has a website with some great info i think its kilby.com?? or google brad kilby oba it a good place to start anyway good luck