Synthetic Winch Rope

[Jarhead]

I don’t need to debate the issue of Synthetic versus Wire, but I am curious:

I have seen a variety of different Manufacture's Named Synthetic Winch Ropes and prices to boot. For 5/16 X 100’ I have seen for as little as $246.99 (Master Pull) and as High as $863.00 (Warn). For the same identifying traits; there is a significant difference between $246.99 and $863.00.

Sooooooooo, I know some of you are using or have considered using a Synthetic Winch Rope; what are your thoughts?

Name Brand?
Cost?

[95geo]

some of the really expensive stuff is heat and uv resistant, not worth it to me but if your hanging from a cliff youll pay any price for peace of mind. i went with rock stomper for mine, its amsteel blue and it was about $140 for 5/16x100

if i were you i would strongly suggest at least 3/8" if your considering it for the h2. i broke my 5/16 just pulling the front of the truck down. granted it started to have noticable signs of wear before it broke but i was only loaded to maybe 3k lbs at the time.

[WhiteRhino]

I agree with Bryce. I recently respooled my line and although not a heat resistant brand, it did not show signs of heat on the drum.

I also have the 5/16 Amsteel Blue. I intend to upgrade to 3/8 since I broke mine on a straight line pull with only 40 feet spooled out of the 125 feet. Winch is a 9500. So, it broke somewhere below 8000. The pull was on a vehicle stuck over a stump and my winch was groaning down to a complete stop. So, the winch was at full load.

I think my next rope will be something different than the amsteel blue. There is a 3/8 rope that is yellow with a good price. Can't recall the name right now.

Bob, what size winch do you have?

[Roadhouse]

I bought mine from masterpull for around $140 for 100 of 5/16" that was a year and half ago. I know its not heat resistance like the others said, but it was only about $40 more than wire so I bought it.

[lgottler]

I think the heat resistant stuff is a just-in-case thing for Warn. I've felt my drum after some long pulls and the only thing warm is the motor.

Side note, I sprayed that rubberized undercoating on the drum before I spooled it after hearing people having the rope slip and pull out of the end thimble. Never had an issue, so either it works, or I never would have had a problem to begin with.?!

I have 3/8"x100' and its a tight fit on my 9.5xp, got it from Rockstompers, Amsteel Blue stuff. I've seen 5/16" break a few times under relatively easy pulls, so I'm sure something sharp musta nicked it to cause the failure. Every person I've talked to with 5/16 recommended the 3/8" line.

I'd just start asking for breaking strength numbers and compare the brands. Rockstompers stuff (Amsteel) I think most people use simply because its so cheap! At least thats why I used it!!

Lucas

[Jarhead]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Mar 29 2006, 11:47 AM) 12589</div>
Bob, what size winch do you have?
[/b]

I have a PN 69502 9.5xp winch - special design to fit the H2 bumper. 12V, 100' wire rope, hawse fairlead. (http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems/bumper_kit_h2.shtml)

I am strongly considering the Synthetic Rope mainly because of the safety factor. Since installing the winch I have found many uses to bail myself out and help others. The wire rope has never failed me (I have heard it ping once or twice), but it always comes back to what if.

After my Sno-Blind excursion where it was necessary to spool out, spool in, spool out, spool in repeatedly I took notice of a number of flat spots on the wire rope. I would rather replace it before I need it, than wait and wish I had. I am a bit concerned with the number of times each of you have witnessed a break when it comes to the Synthetic Rope. When I am helping others I have little concern for breakage. When I am using it for myself, I know I have considerable weight to deal with. Maybe I am better off sticking with the wire rope in forgetting the synthetic rope. If I were to go to Synthetic, I would most definitely upgrade my 5/16” to the 3/8”.

I am going to replace my existing rope (soon), I just haven’t decide which way is better for the beast.

[WhiteRhino]

Go with the synthetic! Once you see a wire rope compared to a synthetic rope in a breakage situation, you will NEVER go back to wire. The synthetic just drops instead of whipping around.

In addition, tie a knot and you are back in business. Not so with wire.

You may be better off to use a shorter rope & go with 1/2".

[Roadhouse]

Bob synthetic line has a strong rating than wire cable. When I was looking for replacement of mine, the wire was rated at like 9800lbs but the synthetic I bought is rated at 15,000lbs I believe.

[lgottler]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jarhead @ Mar 30 2006, 02:46 AM) 12621</div>
I am a bit concerned with the number of times each of you have witnessed a break when it comes to the Synthetic Rope.
[/b]

Its just most people that seem to really use their winch are moving over to rope. I've done my fair share of dragging wire rope up hills, through swamps etc... and handling the rope is worth the price alone!

If you start asking about wire breaks, just last Gitchee Gummee, Keiths winch solenoid blew a hole through it and was left about 150' down a swamp/mud/hill/rock thing. We had to use 2 snatch blocks to change directions and I was forced to hook my winch to his line to make the pull. I snapped his 5/16" wire rope with my 6,000 lb winch! So it does happen to both...

Lucas

[Jarhead]

I checked out the Rockstomper site and they have a chart that shows:

Warn 9.5XP:

Std. Cable 5/16x100

Rope Replacement 5/16x100

Alternate Rope 3/8x80

I am gonna check with Kevin (Jeeperz-Creeperz) to see if they handle the Synthetic Rope before I go any further.

[lgottler]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jarhead @ Mar 30 2006, 11:09 AM) 12645</div>
I checked out the Rockstomper site and they have a chart that shows:

Warn 9.5XP:

Std. Cable 5/16x100

Rope Replacement 5/16x100

Alternate Rope 3/8x80

I am gonna check with Kevin (Jeeperz-Creeperz) to see if they handle the Synthetic Rope before I go any further.
[/b]

100' will fit, just have to spool it in under a load....which you would do anyways, but at first I just spooled it in by hand new and it was super tight. Then I dragged my Jeep across the parking lot and it fit. 20' extra is worth it!!

Oh, I also have the 9.5xp...

Lucas

[Jarhead]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lgottler @ Mar 30 2006, 04:54 PM) 12649</div>

100' will fit, just have to spool it in under a load....which you would do anyways, but at first I just spooled it in by hand new and it was super tight. Then I dragged my Jeep across the parking lot and it fit. 20' extra is worth it!!

Oh, I also have the 9.5xp...

Lucas
[/b]

I agree, the other 20' feet would be nice to have. The winch sets behind the bumper (hard to get at) so I hope you're right...

...otherwise I might have a spare for you. :rolf:

[JohnnyJ]

I was there when WhiteRhino's rope broke. It was a weird thing. Straight pull, winch was just starting to stall. Good thing is the rope snapped back with little force, not like a cable that could be trying to take something with it.

I've got the Amsteel Blue on mine from Scott @ Rockstomper. I've been pleasedn no problems in about 2 years. A friend got some just after I got mine and has no problems, either.

I solved the heat problem by using an 8274. The only real winch. :P

[WhiteRhino]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JohnnyJ @ Mar 30 2006, 10:23 PM) 12659</div>
8274. The only real winch. :P
[/b]

I agree. I ran an 8274 years ago and loved it. Now I have the 9.5 TI. If I could get my money out of it, I would switch back. I thought the low profile was the way to go. But, I can't open it up to get at the selenoids to wire an in cab dash switch. I hate using the remote when winching from the drivers seat.

[kb8ymf]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Mar 30 2006, 10:45 PM) 12663</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JohnnyJ @ Mar 30 2006, 10:23 PM) 12659
8274. The only real winch. :P
[/b]

I agree. I ran an 8274 years ago and loved it. Now I have the 9.5 TI. If I could get my money out of it, I would switch back. I thought the low profile was the way to go. But, I can't open it up to get at the selenoids to wire an in cab dash switch. I hate using the remote when winching from the drivers seat.
[/b][/quote]

Wanna bet?
j-kb8ymf

[WhiteRhino]

Well, let's put it this way. It is a sealed unit that is not condusive to easy access. The only way to get into the selonoids is to remove the winch & split the case in half. It is far nicer to have a simple cover that makes it easy to access AND REPLACE a selonoid.

This style will require drilling a second hole in the case & wiring with a strain relief. I have not yet pulled it apart but when I was talking to the Warn rep at snoblind, he told me the seloniods are sealed in epoxy. I hope not.

[Jarhead]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Mar 31 2006, 07:36 AM) 12671</div>
Well, let's put it this way. It is a sealed unit that is not condusive to easy access. The only way to get into the selonoids is to remove the winch & split the case in half. It is far nicer to have a simple cover that makes it easy to access AND REPLACE a selonoid.

This style will require drilling a second hole in the case & wiring with a strain relief. I have not yet pulled it apart but when I was talking to the Warn rep at snoblind, he told me the seloniods are sealed in epoxy. I hope not.
[/b]

Isn't that doing it the hard way; couldn't you simply tap into the wires feeding to the connection for the remote and route those new wires to a switch on the dash? :huh:

[kb8ymf]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Mar 31 2006, 07:36 AM) 12671</div>
Well, let's put it this way. It is a sealed unit that is not condusive to easy access. The only way to get into the selonoids is to remove the winch & split the case in half. It is far nicer to have a simple cover that makes it easy to access AND REPLACE a selonoid.

This style will require drilling a second hole in the case & wiring with a strain relief. I have not yet pulled it apart but when I was talking to the Warn rep at snoblind, he told me the seloniods are sealed in epoxy. I hope not.
[/b]

I don't disagree that there ARE easier set ups, but it is coming off this year for the bumper work, right? Or as Jarhead suggested just run a plug off the winch to a harness in the truck. You can have it both ways then.
Has anyone opened up a 9.5??? What do they really look like inside?
j-kb8ymf

[WhiteRhino]

No, I have never opened it up. I pulled the "sealed" strain relief off to see if I could tap into it. It nly comes out a short distance (about 1/2") and of course the wires were wet. So the sealing is not all that effective.

So, you can not tap into those wires and if you tap into the remote wires, they are no longer remote.

Currently, my remote is routed through the engine compartment effectively giving me an internal switch. But hokey.

Yes, I figured I would look more closely at it during the new bumper buildup.

[Jarhead]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino @ Mar 31 2006, 11:27 AM) 12683</div>
So, you can not tap into those wires and if you tap into the remote wires, they are no longer remote.

Currently, my remote is routed through the engine compartment effectively giving me an internal switch. But hokey.

[/b]

My thought was to leave the remote connection where it currently resides and adding additional wiring with switch inside the cockpit. Giving one the ability to control the winch from outside the vehicle or in the driver’s seat. Worst case scenario you would need to include directional diodes on the new wires leading to the cockpit; if ensuring a closed circuit is an issue due to the solenoids.

[WhiteRhino]

Yes, your explanation is what I was originally talking about. Tap into the solenoids with a remote switch. I have done this in the past. The issue is that the 9.5TI does not have an external solenoid box like most winches. Warn claims that this is the most waterproof winch on the market. So................. they house all the electrical stuff inside the case of the winch.

You would not need diodes.