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calvynandhobbs
February 13th, 2006, 12:28 PM
I went on a snow run over in Evart this past weekend and I now realize I need to lock at least one axle on my CJ. Because this is a street driver sitting on 33s I don't want anything that will hurt my 2wd operation on the roads. Because it's cheap I'm thinking about welding the front differential. My thinking is that because I have manual locking hubs it won't interfere with on road behavior at all in 2wd. Once I have the money I'd like to do some type of mechanical locker in the rear. What do ya'll think? Would this be a quick, cheap start?

Roger

WhiteRhino
February 13th, 2006, 01:50 PM
Yup, it will work. You just have to remember that you are giving up the ability to drive on the road in 4 wh dr SAFELY. Since it is a DD, is that what you want to do?

I ran welded difs for years with good success. But, don't just rely on welding the spider/ side gears together. You need to use a high nickel rod, preheat the carrier and weld everything to everything.

Good luck! :thumb-up:

mitrail400ex
February 13th, 2006, 01:59 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(calvynandhobbs &#064; Feb 13 2006, 11&#58;28 AM) 10305</div>

I went on a snow run over in Evart this past weekend and I now realize I need to lock at least one axle on my CJ. Because this is a street driver sitting on 33s I don&#39;t want anything that will hurt my 2wd operation on the roads. Because it&#39;s cheap I&#39;m thinking about welding the front differential. My thinking is that because I have manual locking hubs it won&#39;t interfere with on road behavior at all in 2wd. Once I have the money I&#39;d like to do some type of mechanical locker in the rear. What do ya&#39;ll think? Would this be a quick, cheap start?

Roger
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I&#39;d HIGHLY recommend against ever welding a steering axle. To steer, the tires have to turn at different rates. At least with a limited slip or conventional locker, although it takes more effort, you can overcome the locking mechanism and the tires can turn independant of each other. It&#39;s a pain in the butt with anything short of hydro-assist, but it can be done.

Welding the diff, as you know, physically locks the axles together permanently. There is no longer the "differential" action when you turn the wheels, so the inside tire is forced to turn as fast as the outside tire. This will not only cause you to "push" when turning, but can also potentially bind/ break axles, ujoints, diff gears, etc... Again, not the best scenario, nor is it recommended in the least.

Now, if you are willing to deal with the added effort (think Popeye forearms if you wheel enough) to have to overcome a locking diff every time you need to turn in 4WD, I&#39;d consider a lunchbox locker, like a Powertrax or an EZ-Locker. As an alternative, you could get a complete case, like a Detroit locker or such.

Also, I take it that based upon your requirement of "cheap and easy" that some sort of selectable locker is out of the question. Otherwise, that would be the cats-ass. An ARB (air-operated) or an OX locker (cable operated) would be awesome, because you&#39;d have that fully locked performance when you need it, and the ability to flip a switch/ lever, turn the truck effortlessly, and flip the swith/lever again to go back to full lock.

Either that, or I&#39;d recommend just locking the rear diff. Less hassle, no having to overcome the lock, plus it&#39;s probably the stronger of the two axles anyways.

calvynandhobbs
February 13th, 2006, 04:21 PM
The CJ isn&#39;t my DD during the winter, but I want it to be in the summer. I like driving around with no top all summer long and it saves the miles on my winter DD/tow rig. I usually trailer my CJ to events just in case. I&#39;m glad I did this past weekend because I pulled a couple of my rear ubolts through the spring plates and my leafs came off their perches. :WhiteRhino: I have the D44 rear end so maybe I&#39;ll try to take a little tax return money and put some type of auto locker back there and leave the front open for now. Is steering really that tough with the front diff welded verses having a powertrax or some other lunchbox type locker in the front? The only time I use 4wd on the CJ is when I am going to an offroad event.

Roger

shawn
February 13th, 2006, 05:03 PM
Are you looking to regear? If so, get a detroit for the rear (if you want an auto locker). And just get a Aussiie or Lockright for the front on the D30 (some sort of lunck box locker). But, snow driving on roads will be scary.

WhiteRhino
February 14th, 2006, 12:57 AM
When you are running off road in conditions where you actually need four wheel drive or more importantly a front locker, you will not see a difference between a welded dif or a lunchbox locker. I have run welded, lunchbox and an ARB. Although the selectable ARB is nice, I probably would not spend the money on one again. I would spend the same money on some form of hydro steering. Not sure what kind of locker (or spool) I would choose.

Although I agree with mitrail400x that the physics of a fully locked front end are not advisable, in reality, your tires will slip in almost every case. I would think that it could create a problem out west while turning on a wide patch of rock but you will not see that around here. And if it was a problem, you can unlock one hub. I don&#39;t think I ever heard my front lunchbox locker disconnect on the trail. The tires would aways slip first.

It all boils down to this: if you want to lock up the front end without spending any money, welding will work. It is certainly not the best solution but is viable. All the critics will say this doesn&#39;t work but I ran a D25 (55 cj5) welded with 38.5 gumbo mudders for 4 years. I ran mostly mud and I broke an axle shaft about once per year. Now you tell me, did I break because I was welded or because of a 38" tire?

joe_jeep
February 14th, 2006, 09:28 AM
go with a lunchbox front. its cheap. its easy to install. it is a locker not a lsd. u can get a good lunch box locker for 250.00 to 300.00 its worth it. go with a detroit in the rear. it will amaze u where u can take a locked jeep. i was used to wheeling open diffs and was afraid to go alot of places&#33; but locked not much can stop me. if u get really cheap u could get lunchboxes front and rear for 500 to 600 dollars not to bad&#33;

calvynandhobbs
February 14th, 2006, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the input guys. I&#39;ll hold off until I get my tax return and probably get some type of auto locker for the rear D44 like an Aussie or something. Right now I have to concentrate on replacing the spring plates on the rear end that my ubolts pulled through on my run this past weekend.

Roger

Jeeperz-Creeperz
February 14th, 2006, 02:35 PM
I&#39;ve got my old 1985 CJ spring plates if you need them. I won&#39;t be using them anymore.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(calvynandhobbs &#064; Feb 14 2006, 09&#58;41 AM) 10375</div>

Thanks for the input guys. I&#39;ll hold off until I get my tax return and probably get some type of auto locker for the rear D44 like an Aussie or something. Right now I have to concentrate on replacing the spring plates on the rear end that my ubolts pulled through on my run this past weekend.

Roger
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calvynandhobbs
February 14th, 2006, 03:08 PM
I&#39;ve got my old 1985 CJ spring plates if you need them. I won&#39;t be using them anymore.
[/b]
That would be great. It looks like mine just rusted through pretty bad and finally gave in. What time are you at the address listed in your sig? I could possibly come pick them up Thursday afternoon around 4:30 if that works for you?

Roger

Jeeperz-Creeperz
February 14th, 2006, 04:04 PM
PM answered&#33;

I&#39;m here until 7pm so I guess I&#39;ll see you Thursday&#33;

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(calvynandhobbs &#064; Feb 14 2006, 02&#58;08 PM) 10386</div>


I&#39;ve got my old 1985 CJ spring plates if you need them. I won&#39;t be using them anymore.
[/b]
That would be great. It looks like mine just rusted through pretty bad and finally gave in. What time are you at the address listed in your sig? I could possibly come pick them up Thursday afternoon around 4:30 if that works for you?

Roger
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