mech. cable actuator for dana 30

[Shakr]

What is the general impression on switching to the cable set up for engaging the dana 30 in lieu of the vacuum factory set up . I know most will say switch to a better axle and lock it but I am not out to dump a bunch of cash in my jeep. From what I can see my vacuum system is working but I thought the cable would be a sure thing. I see the kits for about 200 bucks so that tells me I can make a set up for probably half or at least somebody has a trick or two to offer.

I'm only running 32 x 11.5 x 15's and a 4 banger 5spd.

I'm also thinking about the ez locker for the rear.

If it's best to go with stronger axles then I may as well sell the jeep and buy something with a bigger motor and better axles to start with.

This is my econo rig and I'd like to keep the cost down but get a little more reliability out of it on the trails . By the way I do drive this on the road so full lockers is not what I'm after.

I'm looking for some honest answers , I can go to a few other sites to get beat up.

thanks,

Ken

[WhiteRhino]

Any of the "lunchbox" lockers work well in the D35 rear. I ran one for a couple years until I finally broke it. The only thing to survive was the locker itself. And that is really the only problem with them. They still rely on the cross pin to transfer the power so the weak link it the case itself that retains the pin.

RE the cable: I ran a lock rite with the posi lock setup. It actually works quite nice as a selectable locker. Normally you leave it locked in but if you are in a tight spot where it is hard to turn it can disconnect giving you 3 wheel drive.

If you do not have a locker in the front, I am not sure it is worth the money other than the comfort that you are not relying on a vacuum unit.

As far as making it yourself, you will need to make up some type of oil tight housing to actuate the inner fork and connect it with a mechanical mechanism that is routed into the drivers compartment. For the hassle I would buy it. It takes less than an hour to install.

[Shakr]

I guess I'm not quite understanding the whole vacuum actuator . If the vacumm actuator does not lock the two halfs of the axle then what does it do ?.

If I have a locker in the front why would I need the actuator . My understanding is that the vacuum actuator "slides" a coupling to engage both axle halfs to become one motion , is that not a "locked" condition ?

[Jeeperz-Creeperz]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(square eyed rio &#064; Jan 23 2006, 12&#58;49 PM) 8797</div>

I guess I&#39;m not quite understanding the whole vacuum actuator . If the vacumm actuator does not lock the two halfs of the axle then what does it do ?.

If I have a locker in the front why would I need the actuator . My understanding is that the vacuum actuator "slides" a coupling to engage both axle halfs to become one motion , is that not a "locked" condition ?
[/b]
The passenger side shaft is a two-piece design. When disconnected it will allow easier turning and less drag. When connected the differential still allows variations in speed between the left and right sides.

The central axle disconnect on your axle does not lock the left and right axle shafts together, it locks the two-piece right side axle together so that power from the differential can reach the wheel.

A locker will mechanically connect the left and right side axle shafts at the differential so that they spin at the same speed regardless of turning conditions.

If you have a locker in the front end you will experience binding when turning. By disconnecting the right side shaft halves it will allow the left wheel to turn easier by allowing the right inner shaft to free spin.

It gets pretty technical, but a good place to start is How Stuff Works (http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm)

[Shakr]

Thanks , I thought I was missing an integral part of the puzzle.

[Nvrenuf]

Here is a link for a homemade cable that should work with some time.

CLICKY (http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/jeep/tech/cabledis.htm)

[MuddyPaws]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Nvrenuf &#064; Jan 23 2006, 08&#58;51 PM) 8821</div>

Here is a link for a homemade cable that should work with some time.

CLICKY (http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/jeep/tech/cabledis.htm)
[/b]


Yup...did that mod on my XJ and it worked slick as snot. :bigemo_harabe_net-64: Only cost a coupla bucks. Not even close to half of what the posi locker costs. I think I had about 20 or 30 bucks into it by the time it was all said and done. I actually made it electric instead of done by pulling a cable by using a door lock solenoid. Then it was a push button thing on the dash.

[ganz]

I am running TrueTracs in the front and rear of my 88 yj with the vac actuator, 4.3 vortec, 33 12.50 Mud Rovers, stock d30 and d35 axleshafts. I have had them about a year and the work good for me. They made a big differnce in the places I could go. I drive my Jeep everyday in the winter plus wheelin. If you put a locker in the front as I did the frt drive shaft will turn all of the time even if the actuator is disconnected. I got my lockers from Randys Ring and Pinion for about &#036;750 and installed them myself. I want to install lockout hubs and get rid of the vac actuator when I can.

Ganz

[MuddyPaws]

Yea, can&#39;t flat tow with lockers at both ends...least not with mine. No true neutral in the tcase. I want lockouts too.

[WhiteRhino]

IMO, spending upwards of &#036;1000 to put lockouts on a D30 is alot of money. If your only reason is to flat tow & keep the front & rear from binding, pull the front driveshaft when towing. I know that&#39;s a bit of a pain but &#036;1000 is money that could be saved for an axle upgrade or alloy shafts & super joints.

Just my less than &#036;.02 :D

[Roadhouse]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WhiteRhino &#064; Jan 24 2006, 04&#58;01 PM) 8862</div>

IMO, spending upwards of &#036;1000 to put lockouts on a D30 is alot of money. If your only reason is to flat tow & keep the front & rear from binding, pull the front driveshaft when towing. I know that&#39;s a bit of a pain but &#036;1000 is money that could be saved for an axle upgrade or alloy shafts & super joints.

Just my less than &#036;.02 :D
[/b]

Yep, you can only polish that turd so much. You can buy and build a D44 hi pinion for less than &#036;1000. You can also buy used car haulers for &#036;1000 and not worry about flat towing. But what do I know................ :rolleyes:

[MuddyPaws]

:bigemo_harabe_net-163: :bigemo_harabe_net-163:

Why do you think I haven&#39;t done it. :bigemo_harabe_net-58: It would be NICE...but 1000 bucks I could pay one of my students to pull the driveshafts and hook them back up for a coupla years for the amount of times I flat tow. I usually drive it. But man it sucks when ya forget to remove the shafts. "No left turn" has a new meaning.

[Shakr]

1000.00 that&#39;s 1/3rd of my total jeep with the current upgrades. You guys play too rough&#33;&#33;&#33;.

[Evil_E]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MuddyPaws &#064; Jan 24 2006, 08&#58;25 PM) 8877</div>

:bigemo_harabe_net-163: :bigemo_harabe_net-163:

Why do you think I haven&#39;t done it. :bigemo_harabe_net-58: It would be NICE...but 1000 bucks I could pay one of my students to pull the driveshafts and hook them back up for a coupla years for the amount of times I flat tow. I usually drive it. But man it sucks when ya forget to remove the shafts. "No left turn" has a new meaning.
[/b]


Tim...I&#39;m currently working on a setup that will allow you to leave the front driveshaft in and all you have to do is slide under your jeep and slide a colar back...and your done that simple no more problems. If you want you can be my test jeep for this...if your interested let me know and I&#39;ll give you more info.